We were now ready to schedule time to do the layup preparation, we decided to do this on a full day, I said it would take 3-4 hours.
– Ram Wax
– PVA release
– GC1/080 Gel Coat
– 1 layer 163g Twill Glass
– 1 layer 210g unidirectional cloth
– 3 Layers of 410 Biax Glass
– Ampreg 21 epoxy.
– Cotton Flock
– modelling Clay
We first Filled the Gap, using modelling Clay, these corners where all squared and cleared with a squared off credit card. Once done we polished the Plug, with some G18 and then 5 layers of Ram wax. After doing the Gel coat, we precut all the cloth and filled all the “Corners” with cotton flock. Then the cloth went on in the following order, 1 layer 163g Twill Glass, 1 layer 210g unidirectional cloth and then 3 Layers of 410 Biax Glass. I was worried the about all the bubble and I would like to put a Bladder in the mold. So I decided, I need to vacuum all the air out, I went home for dinner and came back and the mold was hard. After, 3 hours of staring at the mold cleaning it up, I decided the mold was hard, and MAD kept saying he was worried it was not coming out to easy.
So I started unscrewing it, Usually in the past, I would worry but I was certain it would be perfect this time. I took off one side, it was flawless, then the other and the two sides. I wasn’t going to split it, but Sydney was saying am I thinking what he is thinking. So I split the mold, no resistance, nothing. The mold came out, but there was gel coat on my hand… DAMN. It turned out the second batch of gelcoat was not perfectly mixed. Not serious. I will correct this afterwards as it’s only on the flange. What was a total disaster and is also fixable is we used Nuts to mate up the halves. This chipped off some Gelcoat. I will fix it but note to Self, next time use something flat in index it. I though the result proved the the time spent on the layout preparation was well spent.
Here is the result, I will let the final un-cleaned product speak for itself.
Okay, after choosing what plane you are molding, in this case the fuz came from a crashed Opus, donated to me by a friend. I Repaired best I could, sanded and resprayed the Fuselage with a 2K (2 part) primer and 2K paint, each time wetting it flat down to 1000 grain paper. The last layer of Purple was sanded down to 1500 grain. Each successive layer is wet sanded to provide a smooth and error free surface, eventually you will find a surface that is free from errors, cracks and dust. This is time consuming but well worth it in the end as 2k paints provide the perfect surface to polish to a mirror finish.
So while it’s not 100% completes as there is still a lot of Rust on the base of the De Walt radial arm Saw. There is still loads of fasteners that need to be re-blued due to Surface rust which I will fix with my Electrolytic rust Remover, I think it looks loads better then it did when it was purchased. I need to use the machine so it will need wait while I complete the houses pictures rails and Skirting boards. i have a long standing love for a De Walt radial arm Saw, and there are many article on this machine that say it dangerous and outdated etc… What they don’t tell you is 95% of the time it’s not set up correctly and that this machine is really a workshop powerhouse. I suppose that’s why De Walt called this radial arm Saw DW-1251 “Powershop”. Anyways, enough on that here is the before pictures and then an after picture.
We all face the problem of rust somewhere along the line and the question is how to remove it or even recover some of the metal without doing any damage to the actual part itself
Electrolytic rust removal or Electrolysis
DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL or CHROME, The process breaks down the sacrificial anode and deposits Chromium in the water and the will end up in the local water so don’t do it, and it consider Hazardous Material. Also Hexavalent Chromium cause birth deformities etc so it’s nasty. The process also lets off Poisonous gases so JUST DON’T do it. Also putting some other Chemicals in the process will also perform electro plating for you but more about that in another build maybe. The process can also perform Electropolishing using Salt and propylene glycol (aka Anti-freeze), once again more about this LATER, and they are both more complicated.
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This post contains pictures from around the internet of Aircraft I have built, either for myself or for others. As time goes on and I find more I will add them here
Something I always forget is when you just want to test a connection or create a connection string, there is this awesome little trick which is part of Microsoft Data Access Components (MDAC) on Windows 2000 and above. The Universal Data Link or UDL (.udl) File. To create the file is as easy as right clicking on the desktop or in a Windows Explorer window and clicking on create New text Document. Right Click on the file again, rename the extension to .udl. Ignore the warning that is shown ” A warning that changing file extensions can cause files to become unusable might appear.”
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We always in inevitability end up with duplicates data where we don’t need it. This is a simple way to find and remove those duplicates. I have documented this procedure for MSSQL 2008 up. Email me if you want the same type of procedure for Databases where you cannot run a CTE (common Table expression).
Finding the duplicates
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The first hurdle to success is to find the columns that we can use to determine whether the duplicate exists, this is don’t by writing a query to verify the duplicate Data exists, without that then this is almost a pointless task. In my case It was with a customer Table (Table and Column obfuscated names obviously). Numerous customers had value had duplicate ProfileKey’s, whilst this is only an idea it was critical to avoid duplicates in many systems such as billing and customer management systems.